Pierre-  Emmanuel Durand

"Small-scale local fishing promotes social cohesion"

By Tanja Stojanov - Photo Jean-Michel Sordello

Some 90% of the fishing fleet in the Mediterranean consists of boats less than 12 metres long, like Pierre-Emmanuel Durand's. Head for the Vieux Port in Golfe-Juan if you want to catch him – he sets up his stall every morning except Mondays. And, of course, when the Big Blue is kind! “What got me into fishing was a love of the sea, and if I could make a living out of just looking at fish, I would,” says this enthusiast with a burst of laughter. I've always eaten seafood, so I figured one day I might as well fish it myself with as much respect for the environment as possible. I'd previously worked as a diving instructor and then on an aquaculture farm. But life as a fisherman has given me a different perspective on the sea, its biodiversity, and its rhythms.” In this profession, it's best to pay close attention to the species’ cycles and keep a watchful eye on the stars. “Fishing patterns vary according to season, and between October and November is when wild sea bream comes and goes. The rising moon is generally more favourable to fish movement and, consequently, to fishing. You can also catch sea urchins from mid-December to mid-April, and they're full during the breeding season,” explains the fisherman, who sells his sea urchins, capons, lobsters, and mostelles to restaurants including Le Bistrot du Port, private individuals, as well as large catches to fishmongers and wholesalers. Regulars here like to buy his sea urchins on the quayside and enjoy them with a glass of white wine in the friendly bars nearby. More than a profession, it's a state of mind: “We already have a Prud'homie system, which dates back to Colbert. There are national regulations, but we also set ourselves rules to give species time to replenish. We allot zones and decide on net lengths. It's in our interests and the interests of all living things not to exploit species.” He adds: “For me, small-scale inshore fishing is more respectful of the environment than aquaculture or industrial fishing. I prefer 15 small-scale fishermen joining forces and each selling the fruits of their labour.”