Sport on the fashion podium
On the one hand, luxury fashion houses and designers are hijacking technical sportswear, but on the other, sports equipment manufacturers are making their apparel more sophisticated. In 2020, wardrobes are borrowing from all the Olympic disciplines.
Chez Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello redore le blason du legging.
Quand Versace réhabilite le survêtement…
Sportwear romantique pour le thème Mille Fleurs de la collection Cruise de Dior.
Silhouette athlétique chez Emporio Armani.
Le justaucorps revu par Miu Miu.
We thought we were dreaming in the spring when we saw this cliché. On Instagram, Anna Wintour traded in her eternal skirt suit for a pair of Puma joggers. Of course, there’s no denying that sportswear exudes cool. And now it’s winning over the most seasoned and stylish women, just when you thought it was on the wane. "Athleisure", a contraction of the words athlete and leisure, has become a way of life and is far from giving up the ghost. The finest example of its vigour and vitality? The joggers that seduced the Editor-in-Chief of US Vogue as well as It girls like Kendall Jenner, Rihanna, and Emily Ratajkowski... Fleece suits no longer symbolise laid-back style. Nevertheless, they do require a few adjustments. Embellished with epaulettes worked by The Frankie Shop, relooked in true 90s oversized dimensions by Victoria Beckham for Reebok, asserting their Gucci, Versace or Balenciaga origins with monograms and logos. Even Zara is launching The Custom Color Collection by Pantone, which includes hoodies, crop tops, trousers, skirts... Eric Bompard's cashmere, revisited by Vincent Darré, is transformed into a "sweatsuit", similar to the ones millennials were wearing in their teens.
The other outdoor star is the down jacket, a perfect combination of style and comfort. Away from the ski slopes, down-filled sports jackets wear a thousand faces. Uncluttered at Uniqlo, couture by Christian Lacroix for Damart, or ultra-chic at Bottega Veneta. For Moncler, specialists in luxury skiwear since 1952, star designer JW Anderson has appropriated down quilting techniques. The result? The 1 Moncler JW Anderson collection, exploring new shapes with sculptural patterns in relief.
From Isabel Marant’s straight-down stretch ski-pants to Miu Miu’s woollen bodysuit, a trendy variation of the leotard, to Gucci’s stretch cotton socks... sports gear is gaining unanimous approval. We won’t re-examine those perennial favourites, sneakers. More unexpectedly, leggings are making a comeback. Upgraded with detailing and available ad infinitum, the fitness garment has been propelled to the top of the fashionable wardrobe list by funky labels such as Balenciaga or Jacquemus.
Far from sitting on the sidelines, sports equipment manufacturers are catching on. While Millet and Pyrenex design more urban lines, others are calling on big fashion names. For example, the North Face collaboration with MMM6 by Maison Martin Margiela, Fred Perry playing extra time with Raf Simons, and North Sails presenting a capsule collection for the 36th edition of the America’s Cup in partnership with Prada.
By Julie de los Rios