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There's a trick that regulars at the Rencontres d'Arles photography festival know well: come in September. The heat has loosened its grip, without sacrificing those afternoons spent lingering on a terrace, glass of rosé in hand, in front of the ochre facades of the historic center. Because in this city where most exhibition spaces blithely ignore air conditioning, waiting until the first chills of autumn are less a matter of choice than a survival instinct. A significant bonus: the crowds of July and August have dispersed, finally leaving room to contemplate the artworks without jostling for space.
Three exhibitions not to be missed under any circumstances this year. First, " We Are Not Alone ," which explores our relationship to life and otherness with unsettling acuity. Then, the gaze of Martine Barrat , a photographer and filmmaker with a unique career, whose eye has rested on the margins with rare tenderness. Finally, Harry Gruyaert , master of the urban tracking shot, whose every photograph seems like a painting lesson disguised as a snapshot.
Between exhibitions, Arles also offers a feast for the senses. Le Cochon qui fume lives up to its reputation as an excellent Corsican restaurant—provided you keep a close eye on the bill when it comes to the bottles of mineral water, which cost… €7! Elsewhere, the Chardon restaurant delights with its honest cuisine, while the Plage Plage ice cream parlor provides the perfect sweet ending to the day, practically on the banks of the Rhône.
On the shopping front, the Louis Vuitton pop-up bookstore sets up shop for the duration of the festival, offering a carefully curated selection in the heart of the wine cellar and bar, Le Buste et l'Oreille , which is located year-round at 3 rue du Président Wilson . And to leave with your hands full, the small boutique Octo focuses on fragrances and fashion adorned with thoughtfully chosen accessories.
To extend the experience, the Arlatan offers a perfect ending. Born from a former 15th-century palace reinvented by the artist Jorge Pardo, this chameleon-like hotel unfolds its thirty-eight rooms and suites like so many small worlds where vibrant mosaics, shaded patios, and archaeological remains converse with bold contemporary art. Passionate conversations are just as common around the pool as in the vaulted lounges. This is an address that prolongs, well into the night, the same creative energy that pervades the city in September.
