Improbable eateries out in the wilds, one of them with no running water or electricity: happiness can be a boat ride or a 50-minute walk away!
Far from civilisation, like Robinson Crusoe: it seems crazy, but Bruno Arcache cooks up his menu in the shadow of the castle on Île d'If, at the mercy of the sea and the Mistral. The feta salad, Greek yoghurt with hibiscus syrup, chilled tomato and beetroot soup, hamburger and fries etc. are "treats for our international customers". Because people come from all over the world to explore the calanques and the remoter corners of Marseille. Such as Marseilleveyre, where a Belgian chef serves delicious pork chops and spaghetti Bolognaise in a rocky cove with no gas, electricity or running water. To get to this corner of heaven where credit cards are a distant memory you'll have to come by boat or take a 50-minute walk. Closer to town but in an austerely majestic setting, the Tiboulen de Maïre serves grilled fish from the day's catch – so don't come on a rainy day or when the Mistral is blowing! The bouillabaisse, supped as the sun goes down, is heavenly. For a good lunch, try Louisette on Île Verte, off the coast at La Ciotat: the sardine fritters with a sprinkling of lemon juice are truly memorable. Coming back to the mainland in the evening you could head to the Calanque de Figuerolles where Grégori Reverchon serves beautifully prepared food in an unspoilt natural setting. Further down the coast at Portissol, just outside Sanary, is the hotel and beach restaurant O Petit Monde with its 1950s style décor. Here you can book a room looking out over Kima beach and the sea, far from the madding crowd.
Restaurant du Château d’If
Service jusqu’à 16 heures.
Embarquer sur le quai des Belges, Marseille 1er.
Aller-retour 10 €
Tél. 04 91 333 679
Le Tiboulen de Maïre
Route des Goudes,
Marseille 8e
Tél. 04 91 25 26 30.
Chez le Belge
Calanque de Marseilleveyre.
Pas de téléphone.
Les Tamaris
Calanque de Saména,
Marseille 8e
Tél. 06 41 60 57 94
République Indépendante de Figuerolles
Calanque éponyme,
La Ciotat
Tél. 04 42 08 25 94
04 42 08 41 71
Chez Louisette
Sur l’Ile Verte
Embarquement depuis La Ciotat
Tél. 06 75 50 74 98
O Petit monde
Plage de Portissol
Sanary-sur-Mer
Tél. 04 94 34 39 59
Plage la Kima
Plage de Portissol
Sanary-sur-Mer
Tél. 04 94 74 50 90