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Tous au café

  • Anyone for coffee? - Barista power

05.2019

These days, customers don’t just want coffee, they want good coffee, whether at home or in a restaurant. Rediscovering the subtleties of a mocha or an espresso is the height of sophistication.

Baristas are riding the wave of popular enthusiasm for traceability in all things edible and drinkable. There are no fewer than 17 good coffee places in Marseille; in Avignon there’s Café Tulipe; in Aix, Mana Espresso and two Maison Nosh addresses share the market with the Richelme roastery. Nicolas, in Avignon, uses three gentle brewing techniques, V60, Aéropress and Chemex, and works with a German roasting company, The Barn, which he reckons is the best in Europe. In Marseille, Margaux Sachy has founded Café Corto, a small roastery «that only uses organic, fair-trade and high-quality coffees» – coffees whose flavour lingers longer than most. Marseille native Maëlle Allegrini had a coffee roaster grandfather, but it was in Porto Rico that she discovered specialty coffees, «a revelation,» she says. She had been to a barista school in Australia and worked in nine coffee shops there before her coffee trip to Colombia. «These coffees are precisely traced from harvest to cup, and cropping methods are respectful of the trees and the plantation staff,» she explains. Tony, the French-American who founded Deep in Marseille, says, «Coffee’s worst enemy is oxidation; you have to match the coffee’s grind size to the degree of pressure in the machine, and think how long the water is in contact with the coffee. You don’t think about coffee in the same way if you want espresso, pumped coffee, a gentler method or filter. Serving a coffee takes effort». Baristas, the sommeliers of the coffee world, have taken over!

Café Tulipe, 21 rue des 3 Faucons, Avignon. 
Mana Espresso, 12 rue des Bernardines, Aix-en-Provence. 
Café Corto,  211 chemin de la Madrague-Ville, Marseille 15e
Coogee, 100 bd Baille, Marseille 5e
Chez Gaston, 18 rue Saint Pierre, Marseille 6e
Deep, 15 rue Glandeves, Marseille 1er
Eclectique, 30 cours Joseph-Thierry, Marseille 1er
Ginger Art & Coffee, 24 rue Saint-Saëns, Marseille 1er
La Fiancée, 8 rue Haxo, Marseille 1er
Loustic, 5 rue de la Tour, Marseille 1er
Victor Art Store, 39 rue de la République, Marseille 2e.